British Columbia MR2 Owners Group

Monkeys just shouldn't put engines together.

toyota racing division in England sold a bolt on TTE turbo kit for sale on new spyders.
When I first got my spyder I researched the kit . It added about 40 or 50 hp, quite a lot for a car weighing 2150 lbs. they boosted to only 8 psi .similar to the matrix supercharger boost at 8 psi. Looked to be very promising .
at the though time it was prohibitively expensive at about $10,000 .

Never a good idea to boost an na engine more than that without doing some internal mods. That said Toyota Racing division and other after market manufacturer do sell bolt on kits. Up to the owner not to cook the engine.

In my opinion (talking stock vehicles only) the spyder is the best handling MR2 ,best braking and most nimble feeling of the MR2's, Supercharged mr2 is a "classic ride" pulling really hard from 4k onto redline , the MR2 turbo " the car with the most potential with upgrading" is a fairly heavy but comfortable ride , and probably the most stable at high speed . Always nice to have a relatively heavy car at high speeds (porsche, corvette , ect)

Thanks for all the valuable comment everyone ! I didn't know Monkey W. provide such a quality product.. Surprisingly that there are lots of people ordering performance kits from them for 1zz and 2zz engine. I am only interested in streetable performance so low end torque is what I am after. 1zz and 2zz engine carries the similar low end output. Will 2zz more reliable if I add the turbo charger instead then ? Unfortunately, the VVTLI in 2zz will only kicks in at around 6200 rpm to get the high cam starts.. I may start with 1zz and put in the PPE exhaust and high flow CAT and perhaps add in the fuel management for extra power gain to begin with..

Question about importing vehicles:
According to RIV, US vehicled can only be admissible if it is in stock condition. Any mod will fail the federal and provincial inspections if it is modded. I saw some guys in US selling their spyder already swapped with a 2zz motor and exhaust done, it really tempting me to import one if it can pass the inspection.. Some others said, engine mod is not a concern as long as the body is in stock condition including bumpers, roof, tires, DRL and engine immobilizer are in place. Anyone can confirm which one is correct ?

Thanks..

low end torq? you want a v6 lol

Having imported two cars already, I don't know of anywhere in the RIV regulations that it states that the car must be in stock condition, can you please show me where this is listed? My understanding is that the vehicle must pass both a provincial and federal inspection, which basically means that all the lights, signals, horn, etc are in good working condition, tires have usable tread, daytime running lights are in place, if the car came with an immobilizer it must have a working immobilizer. I have the provincial inspection sheet somewhere.

I think it is more of the federal inspection that stated all vehicle must be in OEM stage. I called RIV and talked with someone there and confirmed that. There are also fine print in the RIV admissible car list sublink that stated there.. However, when I talked to Canadian Tire, I got diff. answers from diff. service guy at the front counter.. One guy said, they don't care if the car has swapped with a diff. engine as long as it is in the original specs.. Whatever it means.. This make me uncomfortable bringing modded car as I may ended up wasting all my $$$$$ if they say no.. One thing for sure is that if it has different body kit, it fails automatically.. I got this message consistently.

low end torq? you want a v6 lol

and throw the 1zz in the frunk to keep the front wheels on the road


interesting reading
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/20-mr2-forum/356912-2gr-fe-swap.html

2zz swap it and call it a day. Build up the engine so it wont blow up with, a knock defender, big oil pan, oil cooler, oil pump (notice a trend here), and lastly a Apexi power fc. You wont ever be happy with the power the car has. Think of it as a modern version of the mk1 with a 20v. Same power level and engine characteristics. Adding boost to this engine is just not going to work or be worthwhile. Total cost to do it proper at the end of the day is in the 10k range. I'm talking about doing it proper not a lets slap on a turbo and see how long it last build. 2zz plus turbo might last a bit longer, 1zz plus turbo not a chance even with the lowest of boost.

If you want to have low end slap in a v6. 1mz swaps are very easy. 2gr swap ummmm I'll get back to you on that. Yet 8 to 1 power to weight ratio seems sooooo tempting. Think of it as this in the mk3 if you want power just don't be in the position where you have to ask how much. I'll be honest this is the worst car you could have if you want more power. I blame the majority of the owners on this side of the pond being old and retarded.

old and retarded.

now I'm really glad I didn't buy one

PearlWhiteMR2 wrote:Piston rings will spin when you install them, staggering them is really a moot point.

This is true, if the clearances were correct it would not matter, besides what does ring gaps have to do with rod failure?

If you really want a fast MK3 just install a 2GR