Winter Storage Tips

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Winter Storage Tips

Postby immorality » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:54 am

With 'BIG BAD' Winter around the corner here are some tips brought to you by 2-Yota regarding winter storage.



1) Pour in some fuel stabilizer with the gas. There is debate whether to have a full tank of gas or the minimal amount. Both have pros and cons. With a near empty tank of gas, you have the advantage of immediately filling up with fresh gas upon taking the car out of storage. The con is that with the extra space in the tank, there is a greater chance of moisture developing and accumulating. And then of course, storing with a full tank of gas, the pros and cons would be the exact opposite of above. In most years that I've stored my car, 4/5 times I would store it with a full tank. Never had any issues with 6-8 month old gas upon taking the car back out on the road. Usually I take it easier on the old tank but sometimes its hard. Today's gas is so well refined that they should keep quite well even without stabilizers for a while. But if you were to store with a near empty tank, just ensure that your car is parked indoors in a relatively constant temperature environment. ie. It wouldn't be good to store a car outdoor where there is a large temperature variation from day to night which ultimately causes moisture formation.

2) I start my car every 3-4 weeks. Let it warm up to operating temperatures. Move the car around (just to keep the suspension moving, brake fluids pumping, engine oil/coolant circulating ensuring continual lubrication of engine components and seals, and tires from flat spotting). Others argue it's not good to start up the car because it doesn't get hot enough and they claim that moisture forms when you shut the car off. I've tried both and I've had much less problems on the years that I kept the car started.

3) If you don't start your car, just make sure you roll your car every now and then to keep your tires from sitting in one spot. And work your suspension a bit just to keep things moving there too. Some people put their MR2's on jackstands to unweight the suspension. Once again, I don't see a need for that as your MR2 would be sitting on its suspension 365 days anyways if you didn't store the car. Just go around and give all 4 corners a push every now and then and you should be fine.

4) Remove battery from car and put it on a trickle charger/conditioner. Otherwise, at the least, pull of the -ve terminal to prevent it from draining out.

5) Determine a method of disabling your car from theft. You figure that out and don't tell anyone else (other than sitting by watching with your gun in hand!).

6) Depending on where you're parking, if rodents are present, you may also wish to throw a couple of rags into your exhaust tips to prevent them from nesting inside your cozy muffler.

7) While in storage, I also make it an effort when I start my car to also work all the other power accessories as well (mirrors, windows, cd player, lights etc).

8 ) Some store with car cover. I don't. Nothing against a car cover ... just that I don't have one and that dust doesn't hurt a car! If you're parking outdoors, there are further steps in properly covering a car.

9) Some people also suggest placing a tarp on the cement ground before parking your car on top of it. This is to prevent moisture from coming up from the concrete. I haven't done this myself but it sure wouldn't hurt.

10) Whenever there is a nice, dry sunny day that pops up in the winter, go get a day permit and take the '2 out for a day. Nothing beats running it out in the real world to keep it in check.

11) Almost forgot about the motor oil. Most people will tell you to get an oil change before storing. Likewise is my suggestion too. They also suggest to change the oil when you take the car back out. I don't do that! Reason is that my car is stored in relatively constant temperature and theres little chance for moisture to develop. And oil is basically oil and won't really go bad in 6 months or anything. As long as theres no moisture, I would say you're fine with the oil when you do take your car back out. If you store outdoors, then yes, change your oil when the '2 comes out of hibernation.

12) Pulling plugs and filling chamber with oil ... thats some pretty serious stuff. I don't do that but may look into it only if I were storing my car for 10 years at a time.

13) Give the car a nice wash before storing. Make sure it's a few days before the actual storage day just so you can drive the car around to make sure it's COMPLETELY dry. I also condition my leather inside the car and just let it sit and soak during the winter. Keeps it nice and soft.

14) Oh, and if your car has air conditioning, it's important that you keep it running every time you start the car just to ensure all the refrigerant is circulated and seals are lubricated as well.
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immorality
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Postby immorality » Sun Nov 13, 2005 11:58 am

I meant to post this earlier, but you know...


One thing I would like to add is that I would change the oil again before driving. I don't think it's really necessary, but an oil's viscosity breaks down over time and usage.
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Postby FOX » Mon Nov 14, 2005 9:32 pm

I'm marveled at all your recommendations for car storage, and also puzzled! Why do you have to store it? What else do you drive if you store your vehicle? Public Transportation? Anyway, I guess I'm asking obvious questions for you all. Sorry about that. Anyway, if you feel like visiting some sunny beach, you can always drive down here hihi!
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Postby immorality » Mon Nov 14, 2005 10:46 pm

Cars rust here, especially mid 80's japanese cars. I have another car that I own for winter driving. Besides it would take me almost 2 hours to commute to and from work each day with public transportation.
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