I found the link I mentioned to you, Cam....
posted by redvalkyrie
*What are the differences between the NA and Turbo Brakes?
Well, with the 91-92 and 93+ model years the only difference between the 91-92NA and Turbo's brakes are the front calipers. The Turbo features twin-piston calipers whereas the NA features single piston calipers. The front rotors, rear rotors, rear calipers, and master cylinders are the exact same between the 91-92 NA s and Turbos.
Even though the 93-95 brakes are different then the 91-92s the same principle applies. Only the front caliper is different on the 93+ NAs and Turbos. Again, the turbo gets a twin-piston caliper whereas the NA get a single-piston caliper. The front rotors, rear rotors, rear calipers, and master cylinders are the exact same between the 93+ Turbo and NA.
*What are the differences between the 91-92 brakes and the 93+ brakes?
The 93+ SW20s got larger rotors front and rear, larger pistons in their calipers, and a larger master cylinder.
*So, what do I need to upgrade my 91-92 to 93+ spec?
You need:
93+ rotors front and rear
93+ calipers front and rear
93+ Torque plates (caliper brackets)
93+ Master Cylinder
Pads for the 93+ calipers front and rear
You could also get the 93+ dust shield if you wanted but most people simply remove or bend the old dust shield to fit the new rotors.
The 91-92 MC will work with the 93+ brakes...you will just have a bit more pedal travel.
*Can I just go to a junkyard and get some 93+ brakes to bolt onto my 91-92 SW20?
Sure, if you can find a 93+ SW20 in a junkyard. However, you will need to rebuild the calipers, get new rotors and pads, and you should rebuild the master cylinder. So, you have to ask yourself, is it better to just buy remanufactured calipers and the other parts you need from a Toyota dealer or is it going to be more cost effective to hunt down everything and rebuild it?
*When should I consider upgrading to 93+ spec brakes?
If you are doing mostly street driving you don't really need to upgrade to the 93+ brakes. The 91-92 brakes stop the SW20 extremely well. It's really just a matter of how much you want the larger brakes.
If you are doing some racing you should upgrade if you are experiencing brake fade after you have exhausted the other upgrades. You can get good pads, stainless steel lines, and better brake fluid a heck of a lot cheaper than you can get an entire 93+ system. Basically, try upgrading your 91-92 brakes first. Then, if you are not happy, go for the 93+ brakes.
*So, what are some good pads for the SW20?
For street driving the OEM Toyota pads are quite nice as are TRD pads, Axxis Pads, and EBC Green pads.
For a more aggressive street driver or someone who races on the weekends better choices might be Carbotech Panther Pluses or Porterfield RS4s.
*What will better pads do for me?
Better pads will give you a wider or higher range of operating temps. This means they will take more heat before they start to fade. Better pads will also give you a a better pedal feel and better intial bite.
*What about brake fluid?
Good brake fluids for race and street include the Ford Heavy Duty fluid as well as Motul RBF 600 and ATE Super Blue. There other great brands but these fluids have been proven time and time again.
*What will better fluid do?
Raise the both the dry and wet boiling points of the fluid.
*What will stainless steel brake lines do for me?
SS brake lines reduce the amount of expansion in the brake lines. The stock rubber lines can expand when used under hard braking. The SS lines do not expand nearly as much. This gives you a better pedal feel.
*What are some good SS brake lines?
Goodridge and Technafit both work quite well.
*What about rotors? Should I go with OEM blank, crossdrilled, slotted, crossdrilled and slotted, dimpled...?
The OEM blank Toyota rotors work well for everything. Crossdrilled work well for street and autocrossing but they are indeed more prone to cracking. Slotted also work well for street and racing but are less prone to cracking.
*What does crossdrilling or slotting do for braking?
Crossdrilling will give you a better initial bite. However, because the holes have reduced the amount of rotor mass available to absorb heat they will run hotter. This could be good if you are autocrossing as it might allow your brakes to get to peak operating temps quicker. Crossdrilling also lowers rotational weight.
Slotting also provides a better initial bite but are much less prone to cracking than crossdrilled. Slotted rotors also clean the pads as the slot sweeps past the pad. This helps prevent glazing of the pads.