MKII MR2 Brake Info (LHD & RHD)

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MKII MR2 Brake Info (LHD & RHD)

Postby camshaft » Thu Oct 16, 2003 7:40 pm

LHD MR2 MKII Turbo 90- 92
-Dual piston front calipers
-vented front rotors

LHD MR2 MKII NA 90- 92
-Single piston front calipers

RHD MR2 MKII NA 90-91
-Dual piston front calipers
-turbo pads

93+ MR2 Turbo LHD
-Dual piston front calipers
Larger rotors then 90-92
Different front and rear calipers
larger f and r backing plates, larger cooling ducts
larger master cylinder
booster has vacuum hose differnet side

-larger rear discs
-
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Answers To Most SW20's Brake Questions

Postby drscam » Thu Oct 16, 2003 10:51 pm

I found the link I mentioned to you, Cam....



posted by redvalkyrie
*What are the differences between the NA and Turbo Brakes?

Well, with the 91-92 and 93+ model years the only difference between the 91-92NA and Turbo's brakes are the front calipers. The Turbo features twin-piston calipers whereas the NA features single piston calipers. The front rotors, rear rotors, rear calipers, and master cylinders are the exact same between the 91-92 NA s and Turbos.

Even though the 93-95 brakes are different then the 91-92s the same principle applies. Only the front caliper is different on the 93+ NAs and Turbos. Again, the turbo gets a twin-piston caliper whereas the NA get a single-piston caliper. The front rotors, rear rotors, rear calipers, and master cylinders are the exact same between the 93+ Turbo and NA.


*What are the differences between the 91-92 brakes and the 93+ brakes?

The 93+ SW20s got larger rotors front and rear, larger pistons in their calipers, and a larger master cylinder.

*So, what do I need to upgrade my 91-92 to 93+ spec?

You need:

93+ rotors front and rear
93+ calipers front and rear
93+ Torque plates (caliper brackets)
93+ Master Cylinder
Pads for the 93+ calipers front and rear

You could also get the 93+ dust shield if you wanted but most people simply remove or bend the old dust shield to fit the new rotors.

The 91-92 MC will work with the 93+ brakes...you will just have a bit more pedal travel.

*Can I just go to a junkyard and get some 93+ brakes to bolt onto my 91-92 SW20?

Sure, if you can find a 93+ SW20 in a junkyard. However, you will need to rebuild the calipers, get new rotors and pads, and you should rebuild the master cylinder. So, you have to ask yourself, is it better to just buy remanufactured calipers and the other parts you need from a Toyota dealer or is it going to be more cost effective to hunt down everything and rebuild it?

*When should I consider upgrading to 93+ spec brakes?

If you are doing mostly street driving you don't really need to upgrade to the 93+ brakes. The 91-92 brakes stop the SW20 extremely well. It's really just a matter of how much you want the larger brakes.

If you are doing some racing you should upgrade if you are experiencing brake fade after you have exhausted the other upgrades. You can get good pads, stainless steel lines, and better brake fluid a heck of a lot cheaper than you can get an entire 93+ system. Basically, try upgrading your 91-92 brakes first. Then, if you are not happy, go for the 93+ brakes.

*So, what are some good pads for the SW20?

For street driving the OEM Toyota pads are quite nice as are TRD pads, Axxis Pads, and EBC Green pads.

For a more aggressive street driver or someone who races on the weekends better choices might be Carbotech Panther Pluses or Porterfield RS4s.

*What will better pads do for me?

Better pads will give you a wider or higher range of operating temps. This means they will take more heat before they start to fade. Better pads will also give you a a better pedal feel and better intial bite.

*What about brake fluid?

Good brake fluids for race and street include the Ford Heavy Duty fluid as well as Motul RBF 600 and ATE Super Blue. There other great brands but these fluids have been proven time and time again.

*What will better fluid do?

Raise the both the dry and wet boiling points of the fluid.

*What will stainless steel brake lines do for me?

SS brake lines reduce the amount of expansion in the brake lines. The stock rubber lines can expand when used under hard braking. The SS lines do not expand nearly as much. This gives you a better pedal feel.

*What are some good SS brake lines?

Goodridge and Technafit both work quite well.

*What about rotors? Should I go with OEM blank, crossdrilled, slotted, crossdrilled and slotted, dimpled...?

The OEM blank Toyota rotors work well for everything. Crossdrilled work well for street and autocrossing but they are indeed more prone to cracking. Slotted also work well for street and racing but are less prone to cracking.

*What does crossdrilling or slotting do for braking?

Crossdrilling will give you a better initial bite. However, because the holes have reduced the amount of rotor mass available to absorb heat they will run hotter. This could be good if you are autocrossing as it might allow your brakes to get to peak operating temps quicker. Crossdrilling also lowers rotational weight.

Slotting also provides a better initial bite but are much less prone to cracking than crossdrilled. Slotted rotors also clean the pads as the slot sweeps past the pad. This helps prevent glazing of the pads.
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Postby drscam » Thu Mar 11, 2004 2:28 pm

Maybe I should have included the rest of the post:

posted by redvalkyrie
*What is this I hear about out-gassing?

Out-gassing is outdated. Older pads used to create gasses which could get trapped between the pad and the rotor and prevent the pad from making contact with the rotor. Crossdrilling was created to counteract this phenomenon. However, todays pads do not create such gasses.

*Who makes good aftermarket brake rotors?

Powerstop, Powerslot, Brembo, KVR, EBC, Apexi, ATC, AP, Stop-Tech, Coleman, and so on all make good rotors.

*Who makes a big brake kit for the SW20?

Greddy's Grex division, Precision Brakes, and few other JDM companies make a big brake kit for the SW20.
However, Precision Brakes is about your only readily available USDM source for acomplete front and rear big brake kit. It includes everything you need to stop well.

*What about MKIV Supra brakes?

You can use the MKIV Supra TT brakes in conjunction with the Hux Racing adapter bracket and Wilwood Dynalite calipers to create a cost effective Front big brake kit. However, this is only for the FRONT. This does not apply to the rear.

You cannot use the MKIV calipers nor would you want to. They are heavy, expensive, and flex more than the Wilwood Dynalite calipers. Plus, the Dynalites have far more pad choices.

*What all do I need to create my own Front Big Brake kit from the MKIV Rotors?


1 pair of Hux Brackets $150
2 Front KVR Slotted 93-97 Supra TT Rotors $130 each
1 set if Technafit SS Brake Lines $170
2 Wilwood Billet Dynalite Calipers Part #120-5006
1 Set of Hawk HPS Pads for the Dynalite Calipers $100 each
2 Bottles of Motul 600 RBF $12 each
Various bolts specified by Eric Hux for the brackets (8 total)

For more info and an impression of this upgrade you can go here:

http://dellepro.dellhost.com/tulsaturbo/vracing/HowTo/Brakeupgrade.htm

*Will my car stop better if I get a big brake kit?

If you only upgrade the front you will most likely only increase your stopping distances. The SW20 has a larger rear brake bias then most cars. This means that instead of the normal 70/30 front to rear split in brake bias that most cars have the SW20 has closer to a 60/40 front to rear bias. The SW20's mid-engined design gives the ability to have such a bias. This bias allows the rear brakes to do more braking and provides for some very good brake performance. If you only upgrade the front you throw this balance off. You will either need to get a proportioning valve or upgrade the rear brakes to match the front brakes.

Precision brakes should be able to sell you a rear big brake kit.

*So, what will a big brake kit do for me?

Well, they look damn good. However, the biggest reason is to reduce severe brake fade associated with road racing. They also provide a better pedal feel and easier modulation when set-up correctly front and rear.
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