No electrical!

[LittleDragon]

Car drove fine 6 weeks ago, parked it with a trickle charger since. I go to do my monthly fire up to circulate the fluids today and there's no power.... to anything. The battery is fine and the charger is fine. I figure with the charger hooked up at the 2A setting should at least turn on the interior lights but nothing... no lights, alarm doesn't work, nothing.

I'm thinking it's the main 120A fuse that might be the culprit. I can't think of anything else that would cut electrical to everything. It doesn't look blown from the window but who knows, it could be. I didn't get through removing it to check it thoroughly.

If it is the 120A fuse, how on earth does that blow just sitting in the garage with a trickle charger hooked up?

I also have a blown 7.5A ECU-B fuse but that's for the airbag I believe... interior lights should still come on...

Ideas?

[camshaft]

Use a volt meter or test light to see where your loosing power.

Anything is possible , every connection can be a fault

If fuse is blown one side will have power other will not

[LittleDragon]

Interesting... I took a volt meter and went to town on the fuse box after work... 13V... Started checking all the other fuses and they all looked good. I don't know at what point the interior lights came back on but it all looks to be running okay. Maybe I somehow triggered the factory immobilizer? I've never seen it in action so I don't know if it would cut power to everything... or it could've been a gunky fuse..

[camshaft]

The factory alarm only cuts the starter circuit, from what I remember..

Having now power means
- A you have a bad battery, or internally one cell is acting up causing a short
- B you have a bad connection at the battery terminals
- C bad connection between terminals to fuse box on + side, or bad connection to -

All the above can come and go at times if tinkered with, but normally the battery will stay dead. But I have seen batteries do strange things were they are dead one minute then working the next.
Bottom line 5 years is the normal life of a battery anything past that is free money

Interesting... I took a volt meter and went to town on the fuse box after work... 13V... Started checking all the other fuses and they all looked good. I don't know at what point the interior lights came back on but it all looks to be running okay. Maybe I somehow triggered the factory immobilizer? I've never seen it in action so I don't know if it would cut power to everything... or it could've been a gunky fuse..

[LittleDragon]

Quick update... happened again on Canada Day when I took a day permit out on the car. Everything looked good, disconnected the charger, hopped in and it was dead.

I didn't get around to check it out again until last weekend. Power wasn't getting to the 120A fuse at all. The battery connectors themselves have good contact, I was touching those rather than the terminals. I disassembled the entire connector and it turns out it was the blue wire that was bolted to it, not the big thick one. Hope that's resolved now...

[camshaft]

you will have to refresh our minds

battery age ?
Battery voltage before attempted start?
Battery voltage while attempting cranking?
Dash lights come one with key in IGN position, CEL/ and other lights
Verify battery power at rear fuel box leaks
Verify ign power at test box in engine back B+ (diagnostic box)

[LittleDragon]

Battery was brand new as of last year... I replaced it after I was getting nothing last year as a part of the troubleshooting. It was already 5 years old at that point so why not. Basically, there was no lights, no dash lights, nothing at all. Still no go even with the charger plugged in and cranked up to 50 amps.

Basically, keep the contacts on that blue wire clean... I still have a hard time believing that thin wire goes to a 120A fuse. It's held onto the positive terminal connector with a nut.

[camshaft]

Please post a picture

The battery needs to complete a loop so you can have lots of + but if the ground is bad, it won't start as well.

This is a simple logical process of following the power and verifying the ground.
-volt meter battery terminals voltage
-check voltage at battery clamps
-check voltage at actual cables just past battery terminals
-check voltage at + terminal and actual body ground
-check voltages at all main fuses, which isn't easy, you have to check both sides of the fuses.