by SilverFire » Wed Aug 01, 2012 9:03 pm
I just finished my battery relocation on Sunday. I removed my A/C while I was at it since I'm going pretty crazy on the rest of the car, and just ran the cable through one of the holes in the frunk for that and down under the car by the gas tank. As a side note, there's a bigger and smaller line for the A/C and the brackets that hold the bigger one fits 1/2"split loom (which is the size you want for #4 welding cable) perfectly.
If you want to run it through the passenger compartment, there's a pass-through from the frunk on the passenger side behind the glove box and heater core and another into the engine compartment behind the driver's seat about halfway up, but they're both rather small for the wire you need and shared with the rest of the harness. #4 is bare minimum. If you have any sort of stereo beyond stock, you might want to go for #2.
I ran the cable to the starter, put both the stock cable and the new one on the big lug. Then, I stripped back the harness from the positive terminal of the stock location, trimmed those two wires down and spliced them together. Since one of them is the wire from the battery to the starter and the other is the wires that goes to the fuse box and since they're the same size, that effectively splices the new wire into the rest of the system. Virtually painless and essentially invisible. The only concern is that you have to be careful where you run the new cable as it attaches to the starter. There's precious little space between the block and the exhaust if you have you starter in the stock location. I'll be getting one of Paul Woods' 6-speed LSD transmissions soon and when that goes in, the starter will move to the intake side side which should eliminate that issue, but if you have a double-bump bellhousing it's a relatively uncomplicated, though time consuming, switch.